I lean against a freezing metal railing at the Dora Observatory, watching a United Nations flag billow in the icy winter breeze. The relentless wind is a stark reminder of the gravity of my situation – this rooftop is less than 2km from one of the most heavily guarded places on Earth. In the distance, a ridiculously large mast proudly displays the North Korean flag for all who watch from across the heavily guarded border.
The view is grim. Mountains rise above the snow-covered “propaganda village” of Kijong-dong, and a half-blown inter-Korean liaison building looms fearsomely over the valley. Directly below me, military bunkers take advantage of the high ground and protection offered by Mount Dora. Armed guards watch the North's movements all day, every day.